Off the beaten track into cattle ranching territory

When I was offered the chance to come along on a trip to a remote cattle ranch in Matabeleland South, I leapt at the opportunity. My trip there was offered to me by one half of a farming family in Marondera who bought into this cattle business 15 years ago. Since then, the rancher, his cattle and the business partnership have all thrived, embodying resilience and determination.

Located nearly 20 km off the main road between Beitbridge and Bulawayo, at an elevation of 892 meters, the ranch operates in a world apart from modern conveniences. It’s a peaceful haven - except for the steady flow of 30-ton lorries on the dirt access road, hauling lithium from a nearby mine, with trucks rumbling past at a staggering rate of 30 per day. This ranch feels like a forgotten corner of paradise, hidden within the rugged landscape of rural south western Zimbabwe.
The steward of this land is Lin Stanton, a man in his mid-80s who has dedicated his life to cattle ranching. He proudly runs the oldest Beefmaster herd in Zimbabwe. Lin remains remarkably active and hands-on, demonstrating an unwavering commitment to his work and the animals he loves.

The contrast between the lush soils of Mashonaland and the harsh agricultural regions of Matabeleland is striking. Drought has gripped this land, underscoring the severity of the situation. My eyes were opened to the stark reality: the ground is bare, with scant grass to be found - just miles and miles of dust. It feels as though this is a land forgotten by providence. Only the Pod Mahogany trees display any hint of life, their leaves a vivid green amidst the desolation. While we eagerly await the rains, many trees including the Mopane and Dichrostachys remain bare, emphasising the struggle for this ecosystem.

Zimbabwe is a land of extremes and the harshness of the land where I ended up for the weekend was on another level. The bush will bounce back with the barest minimum of precipitation. Until then, we wait. Conservative estimates (for that, read, bar talk) say two months until anything measurable. While it may not sound not far off, for many it is not approaching fast enough.

The situation is dire for Zimbabwe’s national cattle herd, estimated at around 5,7 million head. Many cows are likely to suffer. The dilemma is clear: destocking is advisable, but dropping market prices complicate this decision. Those who can feed their cattle hold on, while others face the heartbreaking choice of selling or watching their animals slowly perish from hunger or dehydration.

Returning to Lin’s story, it’s one of resilience and an unyielding spirit. Each day, Lin rises to care for his cattle, a testament to his passion and dedication. He knows each animal, recalling their histories with impressive clarity.

During my visit, I was privileged to witness a day at Mashura Ranch. The day typically begins with water being pumped from a dam to a reservoir, which then feeds troughs across the ranch. Lin’s generosity extends to the community, providing water to over 1,000 head of communal cattle in the area—an invaluable service for smallholder farmers unable to transport water over long distances.

Following the water check, a tour of the paddocks to inspect the feed levels in troughs allocated for the cows, steers and bulls. Fortunately, the business can sustain its cattle (and the odd baboon and antelope) with maize crush, cotton seed and specially formulated lick mixes from Marondera, all of which will tide them over until the rains bring the first sweet, green bite of grass. Despite the dropping dam level, Lin is confident that it will sustain life on the ranch, both human and animal. According to Lin, the drought of 1984 surpasses this in severity. Solar powered pumps have replaced the diesel generators as an energy source for the necessary pumping and this capital expenditure has more than repaid itself when it comes to convenience and recouping fuel costs associated with running a diesel engine.

Every week, the animals undergo dipping to combat tick-borne diseases, and game scouts tirelessly work to locate and remove snares set for diminishing wildlife. Fencing checks are essential to deter poachers from stealing wire.

The ranch's herd is kraaled at night, protecting them from hyenas, leopards, and poachers. Newborn calves stay in the kraal with their mothers, who rely on the provided licks for energy, milk production, and overall health. Beefmasters are a composite breed developed in America. They are adapted, demonstrating heat and drought resistance. This hardiness is matched by a placid disposition. They also have strong legs and hooves and are able to walk distances for food and water. Whilst medium framed, they are productive and fertile and convert feed to beef.

Lin has called Mashura home since 1980. Following land reform in the early 2000s, much of this land was redistributed, but Lin persevered with a portion to sustain his herd, supporting himself, his 20 workers, and 400 head of cattle. The remnants of once-thriving ranches serve as poignant reminders of a tumultuous era in Zimbabwe’s history.

On Mashura itself, the ruins of a milking parlour harken back to a time when the previous owners ran a Dexter cow milking herd, growing pasture to support it. The only infrastructure remaining from then is the dam, the house and a shed and workshop. The swimming pool, at the bottom of the garden, is another relic of a life long gone. It is empty and has been for many a year.

Having endured personal loss, including being widowed twice, Lin leads a fulfilling life at Mashura. This year, Lin sold all bulls to a single buyer, who has even requested to preorder for the next year. The cattle are beginning to calve, and each birth requires diligent record-keeping—an essential practice for any responsible cattleman.

Mashura Ranch is truly a place where time seems to stand still. Life here unfolds at a slower, more deliberate pace, far removed from the distractions of modern life. The distinctive calls of birds resonate in the tranquil bush, and the only other sound is that of cattle bells tinkling gently as communal herds wander by.

As I watch the velvety brown fruit bats swoop in search of their evening meal, I am reminded that life persists amidst challenges. I felt grateful to be in this serene yet rugged landscape, even if only for a fleeting moment.